General de Brigade

Ordnanceboard · Joined: 26 Sep 2008 Posts: 61 Location: Salisbury, Wilshire

Hoping for some advice, have just started painting up my British 28th Foot for Waterloo, unfortunately looking at the reference books they are one of the few regiments which retained the stovepipe shako in 1815 so am having to shift to British light infantry figures. But; there's always a but isn't there; in my units I try to have a mounted Commanding Officer in the command stand; unfortunately in the range of figures I'm collecting they don't do a mounted LI officer (for fairly obvious reasons) so am contemplating a head swap. Not having attempted this on metals, any hints?

Alternatively, I could just ignore this and give them Belgic shakos!!!

schultz · Joined: 27 Nov 2008 Posts: 35 Location: Melbourne Australia

Hi,

Although it is relatively easy to change the heads on plastic figures, metal is another matter altogether. When the redundant head is removed it is important to leave a clean flat surface and attempt to provide a small indent to act as a key for the new head. The neck portion of the new head should sit comfortably in the indentation. Adhesives should be carefully considered. Two pack rapid set glues are good but are bulky, superglue is probably the best and is available as a gel. One fixed you should allow a full 24 hours for the glue to go off completely. Even though superglues set virually immediately, you should allow it to cure.

Hope this helps.

Edward

Suvoroff · Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 1:02 am Post subject:

I'd get a set of small drills (they sell very useful sets of #60-#80) and drill through both head and neck. Insert a small bit of steel or brass wire and (with epoxy or superglue) you will get a joint as strong as the original metal.

Yours,
James D. Gray

Milhaud · Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 1:26 pm Post subject:

James' solution is the most robust, but not having such a drill I tend to compromise by cutting the neck at an angle (top front collar to rear base of shako. This gives me far more surface area to superglue. It means less potential damage to the roll too.

An exception is with helmets, where I don't want to lop off the comb, as shown below

_________________
Cheers,
Mark

SGH · Joined: 29 Sep 2002 Posts: 184 Location: United Kingdom

Drill and pin is always the best. Finish with superglue as you slot it together. As heads are very fiddly, this good for the odd figure, but not practical for any quantity. You could also try solder (use very low melt), but you'll have to be very deft.

Von Kleist · Joined: 19 Mar 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Sydney, Australia

My suggestion is get a jeweller's saw and pin vice, both are invaluable for modelling. The jeweller's saw will allow you to make very fine cuts even on 15mm figures and the pine vice will allow you to drill and pin for much better and sturdier joins. Neither tool is particularly expensive, I think mine cost about $5 each from Bunnings but hobby shops should have them too.

With Napoleonics I cut the heads at about the top of the collar as the high collar is a good guide. File the two joins. Drill and pin the new head and glue it into place, as mentioned I use super glue as I've found it sets solidly. Finally use green stuff on the join if necessary to fill in any gaps.

Hope this helps
Martin

baxterj · Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 1:25 am Post subject:

OB, are you talking about 15mm or 28mm?

John

Ordnanceboard · Joined: 26 Sep 2008 Posts: 61 Location: Salisbury, Wilshire

John,

These are 28mm.

Thanks for the tips so far, my concern is getting a fine enough saw so that I don't have to 'build' the neck up too much - but then it's only one figure that will need doing - maybe I should just go for a dismounted commander Exclamation

OB

Von Kleist · Joined: 19 Mar 2007 Posts: 38 Location: Sydney, Australia

OB,

the jeweller's saw has some very fine blade sizes, some little more than rough wire. There are also saw style razors which have a fairly thin blade. These are basically old style straight razors with various saw style blades attached to the handle. All these products are available from hobby shops usually in the modelling section. I use my saw on 15mm figures for various modifications and the heads usually only need a little greenstuff around the join because it doesn't always sit flush, not because it needs rebuilding.

Ordnanceboard · Joined: 26 Sep 2008 Posts: 61 Location: Salisbury, Wilshire

Well inspired by the advice, a fresh set of figures and the necessary tools are on order. The current half-painted unit have morphed into the 30th (who also have yellow facings so I won't have to repaint the drummer). Will let you know how it all works out.

It does mean though, that my army (and lead pile) grows once more Surprised